Question 9222 — waste

Summary

Mr. Joël Bruneau draws the attention of the Minister of Ecological Transition, Biodiversity, Forests, Sea and Fisheries to the critical situation of the used textile collection and sorting sector, framed by extended producer responsibility (EPR) and placed under the management of the eco-organization Refashion. While this sector represents more than 3,000 jobs in France, nearly 30% of which relate to integration through economic activity, the structures in charge of the collection, sorting, reuse and recovery of used textiles warn of a risk of collapse. The real net cost of textile sorting is currently estimated at 304 euros per tonne, while Refashion only pays a contribution of 156 euros per tonne. This chronic underfinancing threatens the survival of many structures, in particular those of the social and solidarity economy, yet essential to the ecological transition. Furthermore, Refashion applies a contested accounting method, by integrating public employment aid into the structures' revenues, which artificially reduces the level of support granted. The purpose of this aid is professional integration and not the financing of textile REP. This practice directly penalizes the most socially engaged structures. Another A major sticking point concerns non-reusable or recyclable textiles, for which no recovery solution is organized. These flows accumulate due to a lack of outlets, which creates risks of saturation. While Refashion would have cash of more than 200 million euros, resulting from contributions from marketers, those in the field deplore the fact that these resources are not mobilized to match the challenges. He therefore asks what measures it intends to take to remind marketers of their obligations within the framework of the textile EPR, if it plans to impose the revaluation of the sorting contribution to the amount of 304 euros/tonne, and if it intends to stop the inclusion of employment aid in the revenue calculations used to reduce support. He also asks her if she intends to demand transparency from Refashion total on the use of its cash, and finally, what solutions it plans to organize outlets for textiles without possible recovery. He also wishes to know whether the Government intends to develop the regulatory framework applicable to textile EPR in order to guarantee that eco-organizations effectively fulfill their mission of general interest.

Machine translation from French. The official text remains authoritative.

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